Trousers 1863-1865

This sewing pattern was drafted from an original pair of trousers in the collection of the Atlanta History Center. This pair of trousers has a plain front with button fly closure and a high-waisted yoked back which is typical for mid-century trousers. The side seam pockets have self facing over a plain white cotton bag. The yoke lining and waistband lining are made from similar white cotton material. The waistband is made in two sections. Center back is open 2” into yoke. These trousers are meant to be worn with suspenders.  

Stamped on the inside pocket is GEO. REFL. & HOSP. ASS (Georgia Relief & Hospital Association). This stamp certifies the trousers as being made for the war effort and some sort of standardization in fabric and cut is implied. They, however, show all the signs of being quickly and cheaply made. The tailoring touches we associate with menswear is lacking. There are no interfacings. Many of the seams are not sewn straight and the facings are crooked. They were hand sewn with stitches four to an inch.

FIT:
These trousers are meant to be worn at period styling which is high up on the natural waist. Suspenders are a must.

FABRIC SUGGESTIONS:
The original trousers are made from wool-cotton jean with cotton lining for waistband and pockets. There are weaving flaws and odd threads throughout. Thread counts: cotton warp 35/inch; wool weft 26/inch.