Single-Breasted Shawl Collar Summer Waistcoat

This Single Breasted Shawl Collar Waistcoat pattern is copied from a full-sized pattern sheet, printed on both sides, bearing the handwritten words "Fall & Winter 1849." Several waistcoats and overcoats, a tail coat and a frock coat are printed on the sheet. On the reverse side are printed the same items but for boys. The patterns overlap one another, and each has its own line type. The publisher of the pattern is unknown.

This Waistcoat was fashionable circa 1845 to 1858.  The similarities between the 1849 waistcoat pattern and the 1850s and 1860s waistcoat patterns ended in 1858, when the collar and lapels become considerably narrower.

The Historical Notes begin with James McDaniel's advertisements in Dayton, Ohio, in the 1840s, tracing the course of his business as he changed his address and added new products in order to compete successfully during the unrelenting expansion of the ready-made trade. Next is The Ladies' Work-Table Book (1843), followed by merchant tailors' newspaper advertisements from the United States during and 1850s; two sartorial publications, Scott's Report of Fashions and The Elegant; and one catalog selling ready-made clothing (1853). Fabrics in the Historical Notes that are marked with an asterisk (*) are defined in a Glossary.

This #018 vest completes an ensemble when worn with a starched shirt our PP007, lightly starched washable summer trousers PP014 or PP015 and the lightly starched summer paletot PP009. Also consider wearing drawers PP006.

Yardage Requirements (For a man who stands 5'6" tall. Add 2" of yardage for every 1" of height above 5'6"):

• Fashion Fabric 45" : Sizes 34"-54"-1 Yd.
• Lining and Pocketing 45": Sizes 34"-38"-3/4 Yd., Sizes 40"-46"-7/8 Yd., Sizes 48"-54"-1-1/8 Yds.
• Glazed Cotton Back 45": Sizes 34"-38"-3/4 Yd., Sizes 40"-46"-7/8 Yd., Sizes 48"-54"-1 Yd.

Fashion Fabrics for :

• Morning or Work Vest: Medium Weight Fabrics in Cotton - prints, satin weave (natural and white), seersucker (blue/white, brown/white, black/white), drill or satin weave, and 1/4" to 1" woven checks (green/white, brown/white, blue/white). Linen - natural and white plain weave, natural or white drill and satin weave, 1/4" to 1" woven checks (green/white, brown/white, blue/white).
• Half-Dress Vest: buff cashmere, marseilles, linen, nankeen or brown linen.
• Full Dress Vest: white silk, satin, marseilles or fine linen.
• Ball Vest: rich white, watered and fancy silk.