1830s-1840s Small-Fall Trowsers

These small-fall trowsers were copied from originals in the collections at the Illinois Historic Preservation Agency in Springfield, Illinois. While the trowsers were copied from the originals, the pattern was drafted from the 1837 trowsers draft in The Tailor's Masterpiece. The construction is true to the originals.

The fabric requirements are for a man who stands 5'6" tall. Add 2"-4" for every 1" of height above 5'6". In 45"- wide fabric, purchase: 3 Yds. for sizes 28"-42" and 3-1/8 Yds. for sizes 44"-52".

This is a pattern package rich with information. It is divided into seven sections:

• Historical Notes by Bill Combs - Briefly summarizes the introduction of small-fall trowsers and where they were worn after they were no longer fashionable.
• Fabric Glossary - A small glossary of fabrics mentioned in the small-fall trower notes.
• Pattern Drafts 1800-1838 - Illustrates trowser drafts from 1800-1838 and the differences and similarities between tailor-made and ready-made garments.
• Construction Notes - Explains how to measure and how to wear mid-19th-century trowsers.
• Essentials of Tailoring Outlines the minimum tools needed by a journeyman tailor or a home tailoress, how to make them, and their uses.
• Historical Stitches Illustrates the stitches used to construct the original trousers.
• Making Up Describes and illustrates in detail how to make a pair of reproduction trowsers similar to the originals.

FABRICS: The original trowsers were made of brown wool broadcloth. A second pair was made from a copy of the first in navy blue wool broadcloth. Substitute fabrics are: cotton sateen; light-weight cotton duck; linen; drill in white or blue, or woven into stripes, check, or plaid; and fine wool jean. Do not purchase worsted wool.

NOTIONS: The original lining, pocketing, and facing fabric is a white, medium-weight cotton. Of 45"-wide lining fabric, cut 7/8 Yd. Two-ply hand-sewing silk thread and 60/2 wet-spun linen thread to match fabric. Nine 5/8" five-holed, dyed or plain bone buttons.